Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway).

Last week I sat down with some of the Arrowine staff (including Katie, a.k.a. Your Cheesemonger, who has some amazing insights regarding the cutting of your cheese — you guys should ask her to tell you about it) to try out some beer and cheese pairings.

In the name of experimentation, we were slightly haphazard in the selection of cheeses and beers — we were looking to be surprised one way or the other by the results we had. Not that we weren’t looking for beers that would pair well but as you’ll see, a couple selections fell into the “I wonder what would happen if…?” category. First, a quick rundown of the cheeses we had to work with:

La Tur: An old favorite of mine and popular at Arrowine, La Tur is a three-milk (cow, goat, and sheep) soft cheese from Bosia in the Piedmont region of Italy. While its aromatics are a little funky (especially as it warms up), on the palate La Tur is very mild with the tang of the goat’s milk keeping it from feeling too rich.

Manchego Artequeso: Classic Spanish sheep’s milk cheese aged for about nine months. This sharp, dry, mild, relatively young Manchego can make for a tricky pairing subject.

Challerhocker: A popular cheese at Arrowine, Challerhocker is a washed-rind cow’s milk cheese that is semi-firm in texture. I find Challerhocker to be salty with bold, earthy flavors but not so salty that it isn’t a good ‘base’ to play other flavors off of it.

Valdeon: An intense Spanish blue cheese, Valdeon was the one I was looking forward to the most. I’m a big bleu cheese fan, and Valdeon pack a big punch for those who enjoy it like I do. The vein of the Valdeon is hot, with a strong, spicy presence on the palate.

Here are the beers we tried with them, with notes on how they were on their own as well as with the cheeses:

Boulevard Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale: This Saison-style beer from Kansas City is hoppier than a traditional Saison, but manages to be crisp and flavorful without losing its balance. The spicy finish would lead you to think it’d be a great choice for a pairing—and you’d be right. Tank 7 matched with La Tur was the group’s pick for best pairing of the night; with the beer and cheese allowing each other’s best characteristics to shine. It seemed like Tank 7 went well with all of the cheeses — even the Manchego, which proved to be the most difficult cheese of the night.

Leipziger Gose: Gose is a style of Wheat Ale made using coriander and salt. With an alcohol level usually clocking in somewhere in the 4-5% range, think of Gose as a precursor to Belgian Witbier. I thought the citrus character, spiciness, and subtle salinity of Gose would work well with the Manchego, and cut through the richer La Tur and earthy Challerhocker — and boy, was I wrong. Pairing the Manchego with the Gose just brought out the salt in the beer and the intense sharpness of the cheese. The Leipziger played a bit better with the Challerhocker, but in the end this was the one beer that really didn’t go over well with any of the cheese selections. I still love it on its own, however, and think with the right seafood or even a salad with fruit and crumbled goat cheese it would be right at home.

Blue Mountain Maggie Maibock: I’ve been really enjoying this Virginia brewery’s take on the classic German strong Lager style, and thought it would make a good match for the Challerhocker. In practice the rounded mouthfeel and slightly sweet malt character of the Maibock did work, but the Challerhocker cut through on the finish in a way that just sort of threw everything out of whack. Something more mild, like Beaufort, would likely work better with the Maggie Maibock, though I did like it with the La Tur as well.

Maine Beer Company King Titus Porter: By now I think everyone knows how big a fan I am of Maine Beer Company’s work. As much as I love their Pale Ales, it’s the King Titus Porter that I think demonstrates the young brewery’s abilities the best. Rich, boldly flavored, acidic, sweet, roasty, subtle, and smooth all at the same time, Titus was my pick to play off of the Valdeon. While the heat from the blue cheese’s vein found balance with the malty Porter, the saltiness of the Valdeon was too much—a slightly creamier bleu or a richer dark beer would have made for a perfect pair. I liked what Titus did with the other cheeses too, though it was a bit much for the La Tur.

Alvinne Cuvee Freddy: Freddy was my wildcard; I love trying Sour Ales with food, and thought this would be a fun little experiment. Cuvee Freddy is a blend of Alvinne’s Flanders Red Ale with its Stout, which is then aged in barrels for 8-12 months. The result is sour and acidic for sure, but the malts from the part of it that was a Stout mediate that acidity just enough that it isn’t overwhelming. It took Katie and some of our other staff who were less familiar with Sour Ales a moment to get used to the beer, but overall it was the most interesting beer of the night pairing-wise.

I personally wanted to see what it would do with the Valdeon, and that turned out to be my own favorite match of the evening. The sour and salty flavors found harmony, which didn’t surprise me all that much; out of all the beer and cheese on the table those were the two that I would have wanted to take home to have together. Cuvee Freddy also showed well paired with the Manchego, which I didn’t expect, and its acidity and raisin-like fruit notes brought something new out of the La Tur.

Next time you’re looking to do something a little different than the standard beer tasting, think about picking up some cheeses and meats to see how they pair up. In many ways beer pairing is easier to accomplish that wine pairing, and different combinations can open your eyes to new beers or aspects of familiar ones you may not have noticed before. Let’s see some of your favorite beer pairings—beside pretzels or mixed nuts (which I love too). Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Katie Carter, cheesemonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway)

Spring is here and it’s a perfect time to enjoy supple, soft ripened cheeses. Also known as “bloomy rind”, this family of cheese is characterized by their soft texture and white rind. These cheeses are easy to enjoy and a perfect introduction into the world of cheese. The most famous of this style is Brie, a French cheese that is copied everywhere. Though production dates back to the eighth century, makers of traditional Brie were slow to designate (a form of copyright) the cheese and the name Brie can be used by cheesemakers anywhere.

Unfortunately, Americans cannot enjoy the authentic Brie de Meaux or Brie de Melun here in the States, but makers of the real cheese usually make a pasteurized version for export. (Our laws say that raw milk cheeses must be aged for at least 60 days before sale and Brie is younger.) Cheese producer Rouzaire makes an excellent “Fromage de Meaux” and sometimes fabulous “Brie Fermier” arrives in the States. The flavors of these cheeses are creamy, mushroomy (due to the penicilium candidum rind), and the best have a distinct broccoli quality.

Do not limit yourself to Brie! There are hundreds of other excellent soft ripened cheeses. For a luscious treat, explore the world of cream-enriched cheese. Usually made with cow’s milk, these cheeses are sinfully delicious. A snowy white bloom (we can thank the French for coming up with the term “bloom” which refers to the growing fungus) encases a very soft and spreadable interior. The flavors can range from mild and buttery to farmy and more acidic. Look for Brillat Savarin, Pierre Robert, or Fromager D’Affinois. Pair these with a dry, white sparkling wine, such as Champagne or Prosecco.

Some of the best soft ripened cheeses are made from goat’s milk or a combination of milks. I am especially partial to the classic Loire Valley goat’s milk cheeses. Valancay, St. Maure, and Chabichou du Poitou are wonderful examples. Their rinds are a bit different from the Bries and double/triple cremes cheeses. Instead of the thick white penicillium candidum mold, these rinds are a fungus called geotrichum candidum. This rind is thinner and very wrinkly, resulting in a brainy appearance. They often have a layer of vegetable ash beneath the rind, which helps control acidity.

Geotrichum rinds have less flavor, allowing the fresh milky flavors to shine. If made from pure goat’s milk, theses cheeses are usually higher in acidity with delicate herbaceous and minerally flavors. The best soft ripened goat’s milk cheeses are never overly “goaty”, a flaw attributed to poor farming and milk handling practices. This goatiness is actually a result of pheromones from the male bucks and can be controlled by keeping the does separated. Typically this style is made in small formats (usually about half pound) because goat’s milk curd is structurally weak. Pair soft ripened goat’s milk cheeses with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.

Northern Italians make a delicious style of cheese called Robiola. This is a very broad term that includes many single or mixed milk options. Some are even washed rinds but I prefer the mixed milk, bloomy Robiolas. A family-run company called Guffanti ages and exports many Piedmont Robiolas. The most striking Robiolas are wrapped in various leaves, including chestnut, cherry, or even cabbage. With age, these cheeses develop significantly stronger flavors than the pure goat’s milk bloomies, yet rarely reach the strength of a washed rind cheese. The Beermonger and I recently enjoyed this style with Tank 7, a delicious saison from Boulevard Brewing Company.

Enjoy your weekend, Arlington!

Katie Carter is Arlington’s first and only ACS Certified Cheese Professional. She has worked in the cheese industry for ten years as a cheesemaker, cheesemonger, and educator. She can be found on Twitter @AfinaCheese. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway).

A few weeks ago, I came down with (for me) a very rare case of the flu. Now that I’ve shaken it off and resumed normal breathing function, I’ve suddenly found myself with a backlog of beers in my refrigerator that I need to try. I know, we should all have such problems, but what struck me was how quickly these beers amassed themselves, and where they were coming from.

I had purchased a handful of limited run beers and new arrivals I wanted to try when I was feeling better (Great Lakes Rye of the Tiger; a pair of Stone Enjoy By 5.17.13 IPA bottles since I’d missed out on the last run) but for the most part the beers populating my fridge were coming from friends who had recently been traveling, and from distributors who wanted me to try new products they were representing in Virginia.

Unlike wine distributors, who come see restaurateurs and retailers every week with wines to sample and (hopefully) sell to them, beer distributors have been notoriously tight when it comes to ‘trying before you buy’. Over my career I’d found the experience of trying to get a sample of a new arrival before buying it for my job to be like pulling teeth. The attitude of beer distributors seemed to be “Look, if you’re not sure about buying this we’ll just sell it to someone else — we don’t need to let you try it”.

The growth of the craft beer business has changed the way things work in a very short period of time. There’s been a lot of chatter about the “wineification” of beer; that beers have become too pricey, or exclusive — but it’s in how distributors are handling new arrivals and competition that I’ve really seen the beer business become more like the wine side. Today there is such an influx of new breweries along with new beers from established stars that distributors who handle craft beer are having to fight for shelf space that was easy to fill even just a few years ago.

For retail and restaurant buyers, this is a very welcome change. I’m lucky enough to have found a love for craft beer in the late 90s, which scarily enough is a long time for someone in my position. I have a good library of tasting notes and experience to draw from when I consider new beer arrivals: meaning that at this point, I have a good feel for a breweries tendencies and often feel comfortable enough bringing in new offerings without feeling a need  to try them out beforehand.

I meet buyers these days who are younger, of a generation stepping into a market of seemingly endless options, and I have no idea how they do it. I couldn’t imagine doing this job while learning the basics like many of the folks out there are. It’s a testament to their talent that so many places in our area have great craft beer selections, but it also makes it more important than ever that distributors provide samples so that they might broaden their own vocabularies to better shape their craft beer programs.

This all leaves me where I started: with a mess of beers that I am completely unfamiliar with. Many soon to hit shelves in our area; some likely never to; and a couple beers I picked up walking around DC the other day that aren’t yet available to us in Virginia (DC Brau/Ska Brewing Taster’s Choice and Mother Earth Windowpane Series Double Wit Raspberry if anyone’s curious — they can be found around town). I’m going to invite some friends for a couple bottle sharing evenings, and get my notebook out to decide on what I’d like to carry or pass on.

The bigger point is that even after all these years, there is still so much to discover. If you’re the type who is waiting for one or two breweries to come to Virginia: don’t stop asking, don’t stop hoping, but don’t miss out on the amazing diversity of beers coming to our area from all over the country and the world right now. There is always something new to try, and that has never been more true for beer geeks in this area than it is right now. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Katie Carter, cheesemonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway)

A cheese plate doesn’t need to be complicated. It can be as simple as one boss cheese paired with the perfect wine or a flight of various cheeses. Building a cheese plate should never be a daunting task. It’s fun, easy, and takes no time at all. By all means, choose the cheeses that you (or guests) like but try to keep a few things in mind before plating.

Mix up textures. Unless you are going for a theme that will dictate texture (i.e. aged pecorinos), you should try to vary the textures from soft to firm. There’s a huge range of textures in cheese so this is relatively simple. If you have a super runny or goopy cheese, contain it so it does not get too messy and provide a spoon.

Include different milk types. For a nice range of flavors, choose at least three out of the four options we have here in the States: goat, cow, sheep, or water buffalo. There are many blends out there, too.

Offer cheese of various origins. Again, unless you have a country theme (i.e. all French), try to pick cheeses from many sources. These days it is very easy to find cheese from many countries.

Plate the cheeses in order of strength of flavor. You never want to start with a blue or washed rind style, which will overpower the flavors of anything gentler. Provide a separate serving tool for each cheese to keep the cheeses clean and flavors separated. If you are choosing one wine or beer to pair with the whole plate, pick something that’s relatively friendly to all of them.

Fresh or dried fruit (other than citrus), nuts, olives, and bread are all great accompaniments. You can also serve honey, chutneys, jams, or preserves on the side.

Here’s what I am enjoying this week (all pictured):

Moses Sleeper

This pasteurized Ayrshire cow’s milk cheese comes from one of the most innovative cheesemakers in the States, Jasper HIll Farm. In the soft ripened style, this cheese has a fresh milky flavor complimented by mushrooms.

Cabra Raiano

A soft, pudgy goat’s milk cheese from central Portugal. This is a “torta” style cheese made by coagulating fresh milk with the cardoon thistle, a naturally vegetarian coagulant. The final cheese is rich and vegetal with a thick, creamy mouth feel.

Cinerino

A semi soft, raw sheep’s milk cheese from Castelcivita in southern Italy. This supple cheese offers clean hay and lanolin flavors. An excellent example of a well made Italian pecorino.

Holzhofer

This aged, raw cow’s milk cheese is absolutely beautiful. Aged for eight months, this cheese is big and bold! Made by a third generation cheesemaker in north eastern Switzerland, Holzhofer is rich, nutty, and complex. As a bonus, the firm, dense paste has those lovely crunchy protein crystals.

Show me your plate! Construct a cheese plate, take a decent pic, and send it to kcarter@arrowine.com. I’ll try to include it in the next column. Have a great weekend!

Katie Carter is Arlington’s first and only ACS Certified Cheese Professional. She has worked in the cheese industry for ten years as a cheesemaker, cheesemonger, and educator. She can be found on Twitter @AfinaCheese. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Photo credit: Steve Lee

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway).

Nick’s Note: Like all of us, I was saddened by the terrible attack in Boston earlier this week. I just wanted to take a moment here in the forum I have to offer my condolences and best wishes to all of the victims, their families, their friends, and loved ones.

Let’s get on with it, then.

The early spring is a great time of year for craft beer fans. The warming weather brings yearly favorites made to refresh and to be shared among friends. There are also some releases in the spring that don’t quite fit in with the expected light Ales, Session beers, and Saisons. One of these is a beer craft fans know to look for as Tax Day approaches — Stone Imperial Russian Stout.

Largely unchanged since its debut in 2000, Imperial Russian Stout (or IRS, because it’s usually released around April 15th) is one of the best examples of the style made in the States. Clocking in at 10.6% ABV and 60 IBU, IRS pours coal black and settles in the glass with a dense, caramel-colored head. The aromas of coffee and cocoa jump out of the glass, with some interesting spicy notes from the yeast strain used to ferment IRS.

On the palate is where IRS sets itself among a sea of bigger, richer, and darker Imperial Stouts. The requisite chocolate, caramel, and coffee flavors that you’d expect in any fuller-bodied Stout are present, but it’s the dark fruit notes of plum and cassis along with hints of anise that make IRS extraordinary. This Imperial Stout also handles its high ABV level differently than most beers of its style. Some Imperial Stouts overwhelm with a rich mouthfeel and lots of heat from their alcohol level, while others strike such a harmonious balance that their palate feel belies the ABV of the beer. Stone takes a different tack with IRS — it has just a touch of alcoholic heat that adds some sharpness to the rich flavor while satisfying the needs of the Big Beer Drinker’s Club.

A newer tradition for Stone is the Odd Year releases. These are versions of their bigger beers with a special ingredient or process applied to them. The Odd Year releases started in 2011 with the Belgo Old Guardian and Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout, which saw Stone’s classic Barleywine and Imperial Stout fermented with a Belgian yeast strain with the IRS having star anise added to the tank.

So far in 2013 we’d only seen the Oak-Smoked Old Guardian made with German oak-smoked malt, but with the release of IRS also comes the release of its Odd Year variant for 2013 — Espresso-aged IRS. The addition of “several hundred pound of espresso beans” to the Imperial Russian Stout tanks post-fermentation turns the coffee flavor up to a level that can only be described as grin-inducing to dark coffee fans.

Both versions of Stone Imperial Russian Stout are available on the market this week, but neither will last very long. My advice is that if you see any out there, to do as Stone themselves advise: buy one to try now and a couple more to cellar if at all possible. Both beers will be drinking very well this coming winter and over the next few winters to come.

So who’s an IRS fan out there? What’s your favorite Imperial Stout? Share with us in the comments and if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Cheese has been around for thousands of years not only because it provides us with so much nutrition but because it tastes so damn good. Like wine and beer, it offers a huge variety of aromas, flavors, and textures. And like wine and beer, there is a “proper” way of tasting cheese. But you don’t need to be a cheesemonger, or even a connoisseur, to taste like a pro. Here is a simple guide to fully enjoying your next bite of real cheese.

Step 1. Look.

You can learn a lot from a cheese just by its appearance. If there is one, look at the rind. Is it moldy? Wrinkly? Does it have a pattern? What color is the rind? Is the paste (interior) firm, runny, or pudgy? Again, what color is the paste? If it is naturally bright yellow, it’s most likely made from cow’s milk. A pure white paste tells you it is made from goat’s milk. Are there holes? Some holes in cheese are formed by gas, most are so-called “mechanical holes” that are just spaces between the curds. That tells you the curds were only pressed by gravity and not by external weight.

Step 2. Smell.

Most people don’t do this but go ahead, don’t be shy. Get your nostrils right up into it. Try not to mask the aromas with strong hand soap, perfume, etc. You can be broad or very specific in your observations. Is the aroma strong or mild? Would you describe it as earthy, fruity, nutty, or herbaceous? Try to dig deeper and identify that earthy quality. Does it smell mushroomy, like wet leaves, or like a Jersey cow barn? These are simply examples; trust your nose. Also, the aromas of a cheese may not correlate with the actual flavor. In other words, if a cheese aroma is quite strong, the flavors may not be. For example, Epoisses de Bourgogne has a pretty intense aroma (so strong it was banned from the Parisian metro) but its flavor is not overpowering.

Step 3. Taste.

And don’t rush it. Inhaling through your nose while chewing allows you pick up finer details. Keep in mind, there is an evolution of flavor. What you taste up front might change and finish with a completely new flavor. Again, be as broad or specific as you want. Does it taste nutty or taste like roasted hazelnuts? Fruity or peachy? Meaty or like roasted lamb? There are hundreds of flavors descriptors (e.g. grassy, caramel, metallic, vegetal) and even more words to modify those descriptors (e.g. strong, delicate, biting).

Always enjoy cheese at about room temperature. Cold temperatures conceal aromas and flavors, while altering textures. Take the cheese out of your refrigerator at least 30 minutes before you enjoy. Also, if you have bought a pre-cut piece of cheese, the plastic wrap may mask the flavor. Unwrap it and scrape a touch off of the surface where it touched the plastic. This is called “facing” the cheese. Cheesemongers will do this before giving samples at the cheese counter. If you really want to learn more, start taking notes. Record everything from colors to mouthfeel. Formaticum makes a nice journal.

Remember to convey your observations and preferences when at the cheese counter, it will really help your cheesemonger find you the perfect cheese. Have fun and let me know if you have any questions in the comments section.

Katie Carter is Arlington’s first and only ACS Certified Cheese Professional. She has worked in the cheese industry for ten years as a cheesemaker, cheesemonger, and educator. She can be found on Twitter@AfinaCheese. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway).

Last week about 6,400 beer professionals converged in Washington for the 2013 Craft Brewers Conference. The CBC is a yearly event organized by the Brewers Association, the trade association that represents the interest of craft breweries in America. The CBC is usually held in San Diego but with BA’s other signature event SAVOR being held in New York instead of D.C. this year, we got to host the Conference instead. The whole week featured speeches, lectures, exhibitions, and some awfully cool events at local bars, breweries, and restaurants…and I missed them all. That’s life in retail for you.

The news coming out of CBC, however, was encouraging for all of us in the industry. The BA released some figures from its upcoming full analysis of 2012, and the numbers show a continued trend of growth for craft beer: there are now 2,403 total breweries in the U.S., an 18% increase over 2011. The volume share of craft beer went from 5.7% to 6.5% and the dollar share of sales went up 17%, compared to the 1% growth of the overall U.S. beer market. Over 108,000 Americans work in the craft beer industry, representing a gain of nearly 5,000 jobs in 2012.

Delivering the CBC keynote address, New Belgium Brewery President Kim Jordan discussed the realities of the growing craft beer world; among those being the importance of keeping quality standards as breweries grow larger, and the inevitable toll that growth along with the ever-rising number of craft breweries will take on resources as varied as hops, malts, staff, and shelf space. “Our influence is outsized for our growth rate” Jordan said; a statement equal parts state-of-the-industry and warning.

For now though, craft beer is on the rise and from my own modest corner of the business I just wanted to say thanks to all of you out there for the amazing growth we’ve seen in Arrowine’s beer department. With more local breweries coming online over the next couple years and the continued growth of already-established ones, I’m excited to see what the next few years bring.

Anyone get out to CBC or any of the beer dinners/tap takeovers/special events last week? Let’s hear about them in the comments; also if anyone has any general beer questions leave them here and I’ll do my best to answer. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

In this column, I will be writing about real cheese. I do not care much for the processed, factory made “cheese food”. My passion is for authentic cheese made with fresh milk using traditional techniques. This kind of cheese is described as artisanal, meaning it is made by a skilled artisan. It is a fascinating subject that I know you will enjoy, too.

Cheese, simply put, is a food made from the coagulated proteins of milk. Tasty and nutritious pressed curds, basically. Throughout this column, I will show you that cheese is also more than that. Cheese is now a science, an art form, and an important culture. Every cheese is unique and every cheese tells a story.

Cheese was not invented by mankind, it was discovered. Milk is our first food but babies do not simply digest the milk; newborn stomachs actually turn that liquid nutrition into a more substantial form by coagulating the proteins and creating a semi-solid food. This food is digested slower and nutrients are absorbed better, increasing the baby’s chance of survival. This is also the case with the ruminant mammals we domesticated, which is how we discovered cheese.

Stomachs of young farm animals were once used for transporting milk long-distances. Enzymes within the stomach (chymosin, pepsin, and lipase) coagulated the milk during its journey and upon arrival, a wet, chunky mass was discovered. That is one theory of how we discovered cheese. Another possibility is that harvested milk was left by the fire one night and the warmth slowly coagulated the milk. The milk in both of those cases was most likely consumed, despite its odd appearance, and we realized that those chunky or gel-like forms seemed to keep us full for a longer period of time. Notably, it was also recognized as much gentler on our stomachs, as the people of the Neolithic times were most likely lactose intolerant and cheese contains very little lactose. Cheese became an important part of many early cultures, as it provided a long lasting form of vital nutrition.

Cheese has evolved since those early days of domestication. We now have thousands of varieties, yet the basic process of cheesemaking is the same today. We still coagulate milk using either enzymes, acid, or heat. Once the milk has coagulated and is in a gel-like state, it is cut or drained to release the liquid that is trapped in the protein matrix. This liquid is called whey, the solid pieces remaining are called curds. The curds are compacted together in a form and salt is applied in various ways. The cheese is aged for some time or consumed soon after production. It’s a simple craft that has spawned, over millennia, countless types and endless variations. Styles produced today include fresh, soft ripened (bloomy rind), washed rind, pasta filata, semi-soft, firm, blue, and flavored. Cheesemakers utilize the milk from goats, sheep, cows, water buffalo, donkeys, yak, moose, and even camels.

Cheese is constantly evolving. Right now, we are seeing a great revival in the cheese world. Traditional recipes lost to mass production are being rediscovered and innovation and creativity are blossoming. Cheese production and appreciation are growing even where cheese has never been a part of traditional diet, such as Japan and China. It is a great time to be a cheese lover! In this column, I will show you how to build a perfect cheese plate, tips on how to serve and store, and what to pair with your cheese. We’ll also get into the fun and geeky details of all sorts of cheese subjects- from the raw milk debate to the latest in cheese trends.

Until then, why not prepare a cheese plate at home? The following are some options that are tasting great this week. Keep in mind that cheese is alive, seasonal, and changes from batch to batch depending on various factors, such as the animals’ diet, time of milking, or the weather. That’s what makes artisanal cheese so special. Also, every palate is unique so you may not taste, for example, the “nuttiness” I describe. But that’s why cheese is fun, nobody is wrong in what they taste. Feel free to discuss the particular flavors and opinions of any cheese in the comments section.

Robiola Due Latte

A soft ripened cheese made with pasteurized sheep and cow’s milk from Piedmont, Italy. This is great option if you’re looking to move beyond typical Brie. The small, square shaped cheese is covered with a thin layer of bloom (edible white penicillium mold) that encases a very soft, elastic paste. It has a slightly earthy aroma and hints of a dairy farm. The flavor is mild, rich, and milky with just a bit of mushrooms.

Tomme Aydius

This unpasteurized (raw) goat’s milk cheese hails from the Valle D’Aspe in the French Pyrenees. The rind is a pretty pink hue, due to the frequent washings of the cheese, which encourages the growth of a specific (and completely edible) bacteria. The paste is firm with occasional holes. This a goat cheese for those who are skeptical of goat’s milk cheeses. While it does have a very slight flavor of goat’s milk, it is more herbaceous and nutty than anything else.

Berkswell

Made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk on a small farm in West Midlands, England, this aged, firm cheese is made in the style of the classic sheep’s milk cheeses of the Pyrenees. The aromas are biscuity and slightly lanolin-like, while the flavor is rich and nutty with a slight sweetness. It’s appearance is unique; the final cheese looks like a flying saucer due it being formed in colanders.

Jersey Blue

This is my all-time favorite blue cheese. This modern beauty is made with unpasteurized Jersey cow’s milk by a very skilled and innovative cheesemaker, Willi Schmid. It is handcrafted in a small village in Switzerland, about an hour from Zurich. The organic milk is from a tiny herd of pampered cows that graze happily on very diverse and lush pasture. The cheesemaker uses a special technique to create this blue — it is not pierced as most blue cheeses are; this cheese is literally ripped apart in order to aerate the interior to allow the mold to grow. The resulting cheese has a gorgeous marbled pattern. Rather than overpowering it, the blue penicillium roqueforti mold compliments the rich and creamy cheese.

What are your favorite cheeses right now? Share in the comments section!

Katie Carter is Arlington’s first and only ACS Certified Cheese Professional. She has worked in the cheese industry for ten years as a cheesemaker, cheesemonger, and educator. She can be found on Twitter @AfinaCheese. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway)

A few weeks back while writing about the evolving craft beer market, I mentioned the growing demand for more ‘everyday’ brews; beers that friends could bring to spring/summer barbecues and throw in the cooler for any and all to enjoy. Since then I’ve had more than a few customers come into the store asking which beers I meant in particular when I wrote that, so let me give you a preview of things to come as the weather finally starts to warm up again.

A trend is forming in lower-ABV hoppy Ales, which will only grow more prominent this year. Aside from the always enjoyable Bitter American from 21^st Amendment (dry-hopped English Special Bitter, 4.5% ABV), Founder’s Brewing has finally started shipping its excellent All-Day IPA to Virginia. At 4.7%, it’s probably more accurate to call All-Day a Pale Ale but the IPA name does draw attention. The combination of its light, minerally body with a focused hop character make All-Day pretty irresistible regardless of how it’s classified. Look for All-Day to be available until sometime in September. Schlafly Pale Ale is also now regularly available for those looking for a classic English-style Pale. At 4.4% ABV with grassy hops and clean palate feel, Schalfly Pale can please just about any crowd. Rumors have Devils Backbone packaging the lower-ABV version of its wonderful, balanced Eight Point IPA—appropriately called Four Point IPA—sometime this summer, along with a possible canning run of Striped Bass Pale Ale. In the meantime, I can’t recommend their current short-release sixer The Congo enough. An IPA fermented with a Belgian yeast strain, The Congo exhibits restraint compared to other Belgian IPA-style beers, many of which tend to have either an exaggerated yeast character, hop profile, or both.

Those looking for Belgian-styled beers should try the newly released Swing, from Victory Brewing Company. Swing is a Saison that clocks in at 4.5% ABV, with black and Szechuan peppercorns bringing more dryness than spice to its finish. Newly arrived is Saison de Lis from St. Louis’ Perennial Artisan Ales; at 5.0% and brewed with chamomile flowers it’s a great introduction to Perennial’s lineup. Also back in stock right now is Stillwater’s Premium, my favorite new beer of 2012. Another 4.5% Ale, Premium uses two brettanomyces wild yeast strains to make for what may be the funkiest session Ale out there right now. A non-brett version of Premium called Classique has popped up on tap around the area. I got to try Classique recently during Stillwater’s tap-takeover night at Pizzeria Paradiso in Old Town: it doesn’t lack for character and if rumors pan out we may just see some canned six-packs this year. Sour fans: don’t miss out on Timmerman’s Blanche Lambicus—it’s 4.5% ABV, spiced in the manner of a Witbier, and I’m not sure how long it’ll last. Also don’t forget my go-to session beer of choice, the 4.0% Bell’s Oarsman Ale.

Speaking of Bell’s, next week sees the return of the ever-popular Oberon Ale which will keep fans refreshed through the summer; and if everything goes the way it’s supposed to this week, then by the time you read this we’ll be seeing the first shipment of Abita’s Strawberry Harvest Lager hitting area shelves. Last but certainly not least we have Port City’s Downright Pils, one of my favorite new beers of last year and a great example of an approachable craft beer that everyone can enjoy.

So hang on out there; the warm weather will be here soon and there will be a lot to look forward to beer-wise during the spring and summer, even if we find ourselves cursing the heat and humidity before the summer officially starts. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.

Editor’s Note: This sponsored column is written by Nick Anderson, beermonger at Arrowine (4508 Lee Highway)

Time keeps on flying — we’re already hitting St. Patrick’s Day weekend. As a Guinness drinker and an American with a drop or two of Irish blood in my makeup, I am supposed to look upon St. Patrick’s as one of the High Holidays. But if I’m honest I’ve gone a bit sour on the whole thing.

For far too many, St. Patrick’s is merely an excuse to get obscenely drunk and that stopped being fun for me years ago. I’m going back in on St. Patrick’s Day this year, however, in the spirit of spending some much-needed downtime with friends and rediscovering the joy of social interaction. For those of you still enamored with the revelry of the holiday, here are a few pointers:

Don’t go out. I know, I know; this is supposed to be advice for celebrating St. Patrick’s, but I have to lead with it. There are two nights of the year I go out of my way not to be out-and-about for: New Year’s Eve and St. Patrick’s. Folks who shun drinking the rest of the year make it an amateur hour scene in bars while those who do drink take it to another level. I’m planning on visiting a friend’s home this year so we can split a couple beers from our cellars while watching the fights Saturday, which is pretty big for me considering my stand on St. Patrick’s Day.

If you go out, don’t be “that guy.” We’ve covered this one before in the beer festival guide. You know the type, so do what you can to avoid getting to that point. No one cares how Irish you are, and they’re perfectly aware of how much/how little green they’re wearing. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, you’re probably that guy — in which case see rule number one above.

Be ready to bail. If you walk into a place and don’t like the vibe, listen to that instinct. Every establishment in the area that sells alcohol is going to be up, running, and busy — you can afford to be picky. If meeting friends, have backup plans in case the mood turns a direction you’re not comfortable with. If that means grabbing a couple beers and going home, so be it. It sounds a little silly I know, but just about every bad story from my misspent youth starts with me ignoring an instinct I should have known to listen to.

Keep it simple with drink orders. Servers and bartenders are going to be swamped all night long; sticking to pints of Guinness or whatever’s on tap will make the most of what limited time they have. Pitchers are even better if you have a large enough group to justify them. If someone calls for a mixed drink, specific spirit, or wine, send them home. They’re just going to slow things down.

If you’re going to drink, for everyone’s sake just don’t drive. I know you have to drive everywhere around here and it takes forever to get from one place to the other, but I don’t care. It’s too easy to make a simple, horrible mistake that can be so easily avoided by catching a sober ride or hailing a cab. If the potential danger to yourself and everyone around you isn’t enough, think of how much cheaper it is to hire a limo for the night compared to the court costs and missed work of a DUI. No excuses.

Have any tips for folks to get through the weekend? Any spots to have a good time while avoiding the madness? Share them in the comments. Everyone stay safe out there this weekend however you celebrate, and look out for each other. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson maintains a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx. The views and opinions expressed in the column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ARLnow.com.

Community discussion guidelines: Our sponsored columns are written by members of the local business community. While we encourage a robust and open discussion, we ask that all reviews of the businesses — good or bad — be directed to another venue, like Yelp. The comments section is intended for a conversation about the topic of the article.