A Clarendon barbecue restaurant earned a recent feature on “Signature Dish,” a WETA program highlighting standout cuisine in the D.C. area.
A plate of cedar plank smoked salmon at Smokecraft Modern Barbecue (1051 N. Highland Street) was one of three dishes highlighted on the show’s “BBQ Bonanza” episode this week, where host Seth Tillman “follows the aroma of smoke across the DMV.”
The episode highlights a $36.95, 8-ounce filet at the restaurant — smothered in spices and smoked on a water-soaked cedar plank before being plated with maple bourbon glaze, candied pecans, charred Brussels sprouts, wild rice and a charred lemon.
The high oil content in the cedar plank helps impart a “really nice earthy, sweet, and spicy flavor” as the fatty fish cooks on high heat for 10 to 15 minutes, pitmaster Andrew Darneille explains to Tillman.
“This is a dish you’re not going to find at your everyday barbecue spot, but this is a great example of what we consider our modern barbecue approach,” Darneille said.
Smokecraft uses seven different kinds of wood to infuse different flavors on the grill. On the show, Tillman also samples Darneille’s award-winning, cherry wood-smoked Kansas City ribs while sipping on a smoky old fashioned cocktail.
The $15 drink is served with a cherry wood smoker on top, offering both spectacle and a unique smoky flavor.
Smokecraft Modern Barbecue first opened its doors in 2019 and is defined by its modern flair, offering inventive dishes like applewood smoked crab cakes and smoked spaghetti squash.
During the episode, Darneille discusses his barbecue scene breakthrough while showing off his grilling expertise. A Bethesda native, the restaurateur cut his teeth on the regional barbecue competition circuit, accumulating more than 100 awards over the years.
The chef recalled how it all started years ago during a competition where he finished second-to-last.
“I came home so discouraged, and I said, ‘our food is better than this,'” Darneille said. “I’m a competitive person, so I said, ‘well, you know what, we’re gonna do this again,’ … I really became passionate about it, started enjoying it. It became more than just a hobby, and now I’m one of the top pitmasters in the mid-Atlantic.”
Darneille offers a piece of advice to home cooks: “You only make great barbecue after making tons of bad barbecue, so don’t be afraid to go try new things.”
In “BBQ Bonanza,” Tillman also samples a pork belly sandwich at Bark in Stevensville, Md., and tries a half-smoke sandwich at DCity Smokehouse in Anacostia.
The new episode premiered Monday night on WETA PBS, will air again on Saturday and is now available to stream for free online.
At Smokecraft Modern Barbecue, meanwhile, some new developments are still in the works.
It recently introduced a new bottomless brunch with a $40 prix fixe menu from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. on weekends, and is also starting up a weekly trivia night with $100 and $50 gift card prizes on Tuesdays. A host of new salads, sandwiches, appetizers and entrees are expected to drop over the next few weeks.
